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The length of his new garage would enable him to build boats up to about 13 ft long; he is famous for one sheet x mm plywood boats. My wife Denny and I spent a week out on Lake Hachure in a very small centreboard cabin yacht with just about room to take a deep breath without bursting the cabin at the seams.
All of these are related. Rather like the disparate elements that go to make up a good soup, they simmered and gurgled in the back of my mind, surfacing to ask the occasional question then blending into the background noise again. How much room does it take to lie down?
How much space does a months stores take if the boat can be resupplied with water once a week?
What is the minimum height in which an average European male can sit upright? How can a boat that would suit all of the other parameters be made to have the smallest possible range of stability inverted?
What could be done to make her able to be reefed in a seaway, and hove to, where would the cooking stove go, the dry clothes and so on. Some designs seem to have a life of their own! Shreds of evidence disappear into my mind, the mix ferments and eventually the pressure gets so great that there is nothing for it but to download the result through my pen.
So, here are the results!
Length, a 15ft 4. Imagine being up at the head of a deserted estuary, stuck there waiting out a couple of rainy days! I refuse to lock my customer in a tiny coffin like space for shelter so sitting headroom and adequate light for reading is a minimum.
This means we need about 2m long x 0. We may how to write application for result card designs be able to use the same space for both accommodation and sailing space so might need to do this twice over, but sitting up facing across the boat even a long legged sort needs only 1. A month at 2 kg of food a day is 60 kg, this would include an allowance for stove and lamp fuel, with a weeks water at 3 litres a day the voyage consumables stores weight would be 81 kg.
A boat like this will be heavier than a typical dinghy of the same length but I expect about another 90 kg including the rig would do it. Given the tendency of cruisers to collect gear we should allow for kg total displacement. Self righting, even the most carefully designed of ocean cruisers still has a narrow range of inverted stability, so the trick here would seem to be to get the stable range so narrow that she can be rolled up by her normal crew of one.
If possible we should have some weight low down and well secured so it contributes to the righting moment. She should not have so much buoyancy tankage out near the gunwale that the skippers weight cannot sink one side to roll her, and the little cruiser should not have so much water in her when she rolls back to her feet that she is unstable due to free surface effect.
A securely watertight cabin and enclosed buoyancy chambers in the ends of the boat will do most of what we need with the buoyancy, at the helm the sailor needs only about mm in a fore and aft dimension if the full width can be used, water ballast would work but does tend to complicate the structure and is not particularly effective for the volume taken up.
Perhaps some fixed ballast amidships? Lets draw this out and see. They get in the road if they are in the middle, so why have it in the middle!
Hmmm, plenty of room and much of it can be amidships and low down, needs to be secure in a rollover or knockdown though. As the layout takes shape in my mind there is not room to put a mast in the usual place, no problem, I have in mind a rig that will allow the boat to be hove to head to wind so she can be reefed without having to hang over the side, a rig which will allow the sail area to be spread out and low, which can be used to help the boat self steer and which is simple and economical to set up.
A balance lugsail main and slightly larger than usual sharpie spritsail mizzen will do all of this; your choice for spars could be any one of alloy tube, bamboo, carbon fibre tubes, or wood.
There should be one or another under the brother in laws house or somewhere else just as cheap. Very much time to start the pictures so out comes the graph paper and pencil. It shows the basic concept, layout and spaces. By using the graph paper I can map the sizes of each space required, I can work out the optimum spacing for frames and bulkheads, headroom, rough areas of sail and so on.
From drawing 2 comes the next stage, which is a drawing close enough to do calculations from. From this drawing calculations are made as to weights, stability, load carrying ability, centres of buoyancy, gravity, effort and lateral plane, Prismatic and block coefficients, sail area to displacement, water plane loading, water flow paths, foils, sail area and distribution, structural loads and how to carry them, ergonomics and economics, building method and on and on.
Of course previous experience makes a huge difference at this stage of a design, much of what I need is already to hand having designed boats of similar size and weights, building the occasional boat myself keeps me in touch with what is practically achievable with the materials so I end up with a boat that can be built without too much tearing out of hair.
Structure, all dimensions are taken off the 3 drawing so the dimensioning is consistent, any really odd joints are detailed, as are the bulkheads and frames.The First Time Designer’s Guide is a basic overview of Intel embedded development process and tools for the first time user.
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